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Field Guide № 1: Secret Minneapolis, free for subscribers

Minneapolis Neighborhood

Phillips West

The southwest corner of Phillips, between I-35W and Chicago Avenue — a Swedish newspaper publisher's limestone mansion, a college campus, a 25-acre former corporate headquarters waiting on its next life, and the apartment blocks in between, where most people rent and four in ten were born in another country.

№ 63 of 87 · Phillips community · Last updated: October 2026 · A complete neighborhood guide

Drive south on I-35W out of downtown and Phillips West is the strip on your left between 22nd Street and Lake Street. From the freeway you mostly see the old Honeywell headquarters — a 25-acre campus that later belonged to Wells Fargo and has sat largely empty since the pandemic. Get off and walk a few blocks east and the neighborhood shows itself: apartment buildings, a few older houses, a limestone castle on Park Avenue that a Swedish newspaper publisher built for his family more than a century ago, St. Mary's University a block up the street, Abbott Northwestern's campus along Chicago Avenue. Lake Street runs along the bottom, with the Midtown Greenway a block above it. The Minneapolis Institute of Art is just across the freeway in Whittier. Phillips West is small and easy to miss, and most of the people who drive past it every day have never had a reason to stop.

A multicolored mural of Bob Dylan's face painted across a building wall in Minneapolis
Eduardo Kobra's Bob Dylan mural, Minneapolis.

What is Phillips West, Minneapolis?

Phillips West is the southwestern corner of the Phillips community in South Minneapolis — a diverse, low-income neighborhood of a little over a third of a square mile. It is bounded by East 22nd Street to the north, Lake Street to the south, Chicago Avenue to the east, and I-35W to the west. Just over 5,000 people lived here at the 2020 Census, most of them renting, in apartment buildings, affordable housing complexes, and a smaller number of older houses and duplexes. Abbott Northwestern Hospital sits on the Chicago Avenue edge, mostly across the street in Midtown Phillips, and the Minneapolis Institute of Art (Mia) stands just across the freeway to the west.

Phillips West shares the core characteristics of the broader Phillips community — racial and ethnic diversity, economic hardship, strong community institutions, and the complicated relationship between a neighborhood that has been historically under-invested and a city that is beginning to pay attention. What distinguishes Phillips West from the other Phillips neighborhoods — Ventura Village, Midtown Phillips, East Phillips — is the mix of institutions inside its lines: the American Swedish Institute and St. Mary's University of Minnesota's Twin Cities campus on Park Avenue, Cristo Rey Jesuit High School near Lake Street, and the former Honeywell and Wells Fargo campus along the freeway, which alone covers about 25 of the neighborhood's 245 acres. The blocks where people live are fitted in around them.

Phillips West Neighborhood Sign

Our recreation of the Phillips West neighborhood sign
RecreationThe Phillips West neighborhood sign. Our original recreation of the sign art.

Phillips West, Minneapolis — Key Stats (2025–2026)

Residents (2020 Census)
~5,100
Residents of color (2020–24 ACS)
86%
Median condo sale price (2025 data, only 10 sales)
$110K
Renter-occupied homes (2020–24 ACS)
84%
Area, between I-35W, 22nd Street, Chicago Avenue and Lake Street
0.38 sq mi
Former Honeywell and Wells Fargo campus, planned for redevelopment
25 acres

Phillips West History & Origins

Like the rest of Phillips, the land now known as Phillips West was originally Dakota territory. The Phillips community takes its name from Wendell Phillips, the abolitionist — a fitting namesake for a neighborhood that has long been home to people on the margins of American prosperity. The area grew quickly in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Industry along the Milwaukee Road tracks drew workers and immigrant families — Scandinavians and Germans among many others — while some of the city's wealthiest families built mansions along Park Avenue.

The neighborhood's best-known building dates from that era. Swan Turnblad, who owned the Svenska Amerikanska Posten, the largest Swedish-language newspaper in the United States, built a 33-room mansion on Park Avenue between 1904 and 1908. The family lived there only a short while, and in 1929 Turnblad donated the house and the newspaper to the newly founded American Institute of Swedish Arts, Literature and Science — today's American Swedish Institute. On the west side of the neighborhood, the Honeywell campus grew up in buildings dating from 1912 to 1953, and it served as Honeywell's international corporate headquarters until 1999.

The mid-20th century brought the familiar pattern of decline. White flight, freeway construction (I-35W was cut along the neighborhood's western edge in the 1960s), and disinvestment transformed Phillips West from a working-class neighborhood to a poor one. The housing stock deteriorated. Crime increased. Over the same decades, the neighborhood's African American and American Indian communities grew, and later Southeast Asian refugees and Somali, Latino, and other immigrant communities settled in the affordable housing stock. By the 1980s, Phillips was one of the poorest, most crime-affected areas in Minneapolis.

After Honeywell left, Wells Fargo used the campus for its home mortgage business until it emptied out after the pandemic. In 2026 a developer announced plans to rebuild it as housing, health care, a school and retail.

Living in Phillips West

Living in Phillips West means living in a neighborhood that much of the city only sees from I-35W. The freeway closes off the west side, Lake Street and Chicago Avenue run along the south and east, and inside those edges sit campuses — the Turnblad Mansion's grounds, St. Mary's, the empty Wells Fargo buildings — with residential blocks fitted between them. Visitors come for the American Swedish Institute or for appointments at Abbott and leave without seeing much else. Phillips West residents know the blocks.

The residential experience varies by block. The streets immediately around the institutional campuses are generally well-maintained, benefiting from the proximity to large institutions that have an interest in their surroundings. Other blocks — particularly toward the edges of the neighborhood, near the freeway and the commercial corridors — are rougher. The housing stock is mixed, and quality ranges from carefully maintained owner-occupied homes to rental properties showing decades of deferred maintenance. You will see both on the same block.

The community is diverse in every dimension — racially, ethnically, economically, linguistically. By Census estimates, about four in ten residents were born outside the United States, and about half speak a language other than English at home. Black residents, including East African families, are the largest group; about one in five residents is Latino. The diversity is not curated or advertised. It is the natural product of a neighborhood where the rents are low, the institutions are strong, and people from everywhere have found a foothold.

Abbott Northwestern Hospital, on Chicago Avenue at the neighborhood's southeast edge, is the major institutional presence on the east side. It employs thousands and generates a constant flow of workers, patients, and visitors along that edge. Like Hennepin Healthcare in Elliot Park, the hospital is both an asset and a force that shapes the neighborhood around its needs — parking, traffic, institutional expansion — rather than around residential ones.

Phillips West Food, Drink & Local Spots

Phillips West's food scene is modest within its own boundaries but richly supplemented by the neighboring corridors. Eat Street (Nicollet Avenue in Whittier) is across I-35W to the west. Midtown Global Market is at Chicago and Lake, just across Chicago Avenue in Midtown Phillips. Franklin Avenue's restaurants in Ventura Village are a couple of blocks north of 22nd Street. Inside the neighborhood, the place most visitors find is the café at the American Swedish Institute.

The Anchors

FIKA at the American Swedish InstituteNordic Café$$

2600 Park Avenue, on the ASI campus. Nordic-inspired seasonal menus — Swedish meatballs, gravlax, Swedish waffles at weekend brunch — with a patio overlooking the mansion's courtyard in warm weather. Walk-ins are welcome without museum admission.

Midtown Global Market (Nearby)Food Hall$–$$

920 East Lake Street, at Chicago and Lake, just across Chicago Avenue in Midtown Phillips. An indoor market with food stalls and shops from more than a dozen cuisines under one roof.

Nicollet Avenue / Eat Street (Nearby)Restaurant Row$–$$$

Across I-35W to the west, Nicollet Avenue through Whittier is Eat Street — the long run of restaurants from many cuisines that gives the corridor its name. From the western blocks of Phillips West it is a short walk over the freeway; from the Chicago Avenue side it is the better part of a mile.

Also Worth Knowing

The grocery situation in Phillips West mirrors the broader Phillips challenge — no full-service conventional supermarket within the neighborhood. The Wedge Co-op, on Lyndale Avenue at the far side of Whittier, is accessible by bus or bike. The lack of a nearby supermarket is a quality-of-life issue that community organizations have advocated to address.

Parks, Culture & Outdoors in Phillips West

Phillips West's cultural anchor is the American Swedish Institute, on Park Avenue near the middle of the neighborhood, with Mia and the Children's Theatre Company just across I-35W in Whittier. The park resources are more modest, reflecting the neighborhood's economic profile and historical underinvestment in Phillips-area infrastructure.

American Swedish Institute

The Turnblad Mansion, nicknamed "the Castle," is the reason most people find Phillips West. Designed by Minneapolis architects Christopher Boehme and Victor Cordella and finished in 1908, it is a châteauesque house with a tall turret, a steep roof, and a facade of carved Indiana limestone. Inside are 33 rooms, each in its own style, from Gustavian to Moorish. Today it is the home of the American Swedish Institute, a museum and cultural center for the Swedish American community and the neighborhood around it, and it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The museum is self-guided, and FIKA, the café on the campus, is open to walk-ins without admission.

Across the Freeway: Mia and the Children's Theatre Company

The Minneapolis Institute of Art and the Children's Theatre Company share 2400 Third Avenue South, just across I-35W in Whittier. Mia's original 1915 building was designed by McKim, Mead & White, with later additions by Kenzo Tange (1974) and Michael Graves (2006), and general admission is free. CTC won the 2003 Tony Award for Outstanding Regional Theatre. Neither is in Phillips West, but both are within walking distance of most of it.

Parks

Phillips West has no Park Board park inside its own lines; the nearest parks sit just over its edges — Peavey Field across East 22nd Street in Ventura Village, and Clinton Field and the 28th Street Totlot across I-35W in Whittier. The parks are well-used but reflect the broader pattern of underinvestment in Phillips-area infrastructure. The Midtown Greenway runs through the southern end of the neighborhood, a block north of Lake Street, providing trail access for cycling and walking. For larger green spaces, residents look to Loring Park to the northwest or Powderhorn Park to the southeast.

Phillips West Schools

Phillips West is served by Minneapolis Public Schools. Andersen United Middle School is a few blocks east, across Chicago Avenue in Midtown Phillips, and Whittier Elementary is across I-35W in Whittier. Attendance areas change, so check the district's school finder for a specific address. The Minneapolis Public Schools system also allows citywide enrollment, giving families access to magnet programs and specialty options beyond the immediate neighborhood.

Two private schools sit inside the neighborhood. Cristo Rey Jesuit High School, at 2924 4th Avenue South near Lake Street, is a Catholic college-prep high school built around a corporate work-study program. St. Mary's University of Minnesota has its Twin Cities campus at 2500 Park Avenue, a block north of the American Swedish Institute.

The educational challenges facing Phillips West families are significant — poverty, language barriers, housing instability, and the broader systemic issues affecting Minneapolis Public Schools all play roles. But a child growing up in Phillips West has the Turnblad Mansion a few blocks away and one of the great art museums in the country, with free general admission, within walking distance across the freeway. That counts for something.

Phillips West Real Estate & Housing

Phillips West's housing market is affordable by Minneapolis standards, and it is overwhelmingly a rental market: by Census estimates, about 84 percent of homes are renter-occupied. Most of the housing is in apartment buildings and affordable housing developments, and by the same estimates about two-thirds of the units were built after 1970; older houses and duplexes make up a smaller share. The condition varies widely — some homes have been well-maintained or renovated by owner-occupants, while others show the effects of decades of deferred maintenance.

Very little comes up for sale. Minneapolis Area REALTORS counted 10 closed sales in Phillips West in 2025, nine of them townhouses or condos, at a median price of $110,000 — down from $225,000 in 2024, a swing that says more about how few sales there are than about the market. For buyers who do find something, it offers what is increasingly rare in Minneapolis: ownership close to downtown at prices accessible to working- and middle-class buyers. Down-payment assistance programs and first-time buyer incentives can make ownership even more accessible.

The Rental Market

Rental housing is abundant. Census estimates put the median rent at around $980 a month. Affordable and subsidized units are available through various programs. The rental market is generally tenant-favorable in terms of price, but building quality varies enormously. Prospective renters should inspect units carefully, check the city's rental licensing records, and talk to current tenants if possible. The best deals in Phillips West are genuinely excellent. The worst are genuinely problematic.

Getting Around Phillips West

Phillips West has decent transit connections and solid walkability for a neighborhood outside the downtown core, though everyday errands usually mean walking to the edges — Lake Street, Chicago Avenue, or Franklin Avenue a couple of blocks north of 22nd Street. Bus service runs along those edges: the METRO D Line and Route 5 on Chicago Avenue, and the METRO B Line on Lake Street, with stations at Lake & I-35W and Lake & Chicago, the neighborhood's two southern corners. Route 11 stops at 4th Avenue and Lake Street.

The METRO Orange Line's I-35W & Lake St Station is at the neighborhood's southwest corner, with service north to downtown and south along I-35W to Burnsville. The Blue Line light rail is farther off — its Lake Street/Midtown station is more than a mile east along Lake Street.

The Midtown Greenway, through the southern end of the neighborhood, provides excellent cycling infrastructure — the separated trail connects to the Chain of Lakes, the Mississippi River trails, and the broader regional network. The flat terrain makes cycling practical throughout Phillips West. Bike-share stations are accessible in the area.

By car, I-35W is immediately accessible on the neighborhood's western edge, providing quick connections to downtown, the southern suburbs, and the interstate system. Plenty of residents go without: by Census estimates, about a third of households have no car, and nearly a quarter of workers commute by transit.

What's Changing: The Honest Version

Phillips West's tensions are rooted in the same dynamics that shape all of the Phillips neighborhoods — poverty, racial inequality, institutional power, and the slow creep of development pressure on affordable communities. The planned redevelopment of the old Honeywell campus adds a new dimension to these tensions, but it does not resolve them.

The Old Honeywell Campus

The biggest question in Phillips West covers 25 acres. The former Honeywell headquarters along I-35W between 26th Street and the Greenway, later Wells Fargo's home mortgage campus, has been mostly empty since the pandemic. In June 2026, Novarum Development Partners announced plans to turn it into a development called Iconic Plaza — roughly 1,000 housing units, medical offices, educational space and retail around the campus's existing four-acre park, built out over two to five years, according to CBS Minnesota. If it happens as planned, it would add housing and services on the neighborhood's west side. It would also bring the kind of development pressure described below.

Hospitals and Institutional Creep

Abbott Northwestern Hospital's campus runs along Chicago Avenue at the neighborhood's southeast edge, mostly on the Midtown Phillips side of the street, with one piece on the Phillips West side between 28th Street and the Greenway. The hospital provides employment and essential services, but institutional expansion in a low-income neighborhood raises familiar questions: whose needs are being served, whose land is being consumed, and whether the neighborhood's residential character can survive the growth of institutions that were designed to serve the city rather than the block.

Affordability and the Slow Squeeze

Phillips West has not experienced the rapid gentrification that has transformed parts of Elliot Park or the North Loop. The neighborhood remains genuinely affordable, and the development pressure is lower here than in more centrally located areas. But the pressure exists, and rents have increased. The changes are incremental rather than dramatic, but the direction is clear. Community organizations have advocated for affordable housing preservation, community land trusts, and anti-displacement measures. Whether these efforts can keep Phillips West affordable in the long term — given its proximity to downtown, its transit access, and the redevelopment planned for the old Honeywell campus — is the neighborhood's defining question.

Safety and Community Investment

Crime remains a concern in Phillips West, and the neighborhood's relationship with public safety is shaped by the same dynamics that affect the broader Phillips community — poverty, racial disparities in policing, and the tension between the need for safety and the harm that over-policing can cause in communities of color. Community-led safety initiatives, block clubs, and neighborhood patrols supplement formal policing. The honest assessment is that Phillips West is safer than its reputation suggests but less safe than the city average. Investing in the conditions that prevent crime — economic opportunity, housing stability, youth programming, mental health services — is the long-term answer. The community organizations doing that work deserve more support than they currently receive.

Phillips West FAQ

Is Phillips West a good neighborhood in Minneapolis?

Phillips West is a neighborhood that rewards a particular kind of resident — someone who values diversity, affordability, and community over polish, safety margins, and property values. It is a small, mostly renter neighborhood between I-35W and Chicago Avenue, with the American Swedish Institute and St. Mary's University's Twin Cities campus on Park Avenue and the Minneapolis Institute of Art just across the freeway in Whittier. Most residents are people of color, and about four in ten were born outside the United States, by Census estimates. The neighborhood has real challenges — poverty, crime, housing quality — that make it unsuitable for people who expect a comfortable, well-maintained urban experience. But for people who want to live in a genuinely diverse community close to downtown, at prices well below most of Minneapolis, Phillips West offers something rare.

Is Phillips West, Minneapolis safe?

Phillips West has crime rates above the city average, including property crime and some violent crime. The neighborhood has historically been one of the higher-crime areas in Minneapolis, driven by poverty, substance abuse, and the concentration of social stressors. Conditions vary by block — some residential streets are quiet and close-knit, while others experience more activity. The area around the institutional campuses is generally well-maintained and safe during the day. As with other Phillips neighborhoods, basic urban awareness is essential. Community organizations and block clubs work actively on safety, and most residents navigate the neighborhood without major incidents by knowing their surroundings and their neighbors.

What is the American Swedish Institute?

The American Swedish Institute (ASI) is a museum and cultural center at 2600 Park Avenue, near the middle of Phillips West. Its centerpiece is the Turnblad Mansion, a 33-room house built between 1904 and 1908 for Swan Turnblad, who owned the Svenska Amerikanska Posten, the largest Swedish-language newspaper in the United States. The family lived there only a short while; in 1929 Turnblad donated the house to the organization that became ASI. The mansion is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. FIKA, the café on the campus, takes walk-ins without museum admission.

How much does it cost to live in Phillips West?

Phillips West is one of the most affordable neighborhoods in the central city, and one of the most renter-heavy: Census estimates count about 84 percent of its homes as renter-occupied, with a median rent around $980 a month. Very little comes up for sale. Minneapolis Area REALTORS counted 10 closed sales in 2025, nine of them townhouses or condos, at a median of $110,000; the 2024 median was $225,000, a swing that says more about how few sales there are than about the market. The neighborhood has significant affordable and subsidized housing stock. For lower-income renters and the occasional first-time buyer, Phillips West offers centrally located housing at prices that are increasingly hard to find elsewhere in the city.

Where exactly is Phillips West in Minneapolis?

Phillips West occupies the southwestern part of the Phillips community in South Minneapolis, bounded by East 22nd Street to the north, Lake Street to the south, Chicago Avenue to the east, and I-35W to the west. It sits south of Ventura Village, west of Midtown Phillips, north of the Central neighborhood, and east of Whittier across the freeway. The American Swedish Institute and St. Mary's University are on Park Avenue near the middle of the neighborhood, Abbott Northwestern Hospital sits on Chicago Avenue at the southeast edge, mostly across the street in Midtown Phillips, and the Minneapolis Institute of Art is just across I-35W in Whittier.

What hospital is near Phillips West?

Abbott Northwestern Hospital, part of the Allina Health system, sits on Chicago Avenue at the southeast edge of Phillips West, with most of its campus across the street in Midtown Phillips. It is one of the largest hospitals in the Twin Cities and a major employer in the area. The hospital campus, including associated medical offices and facilities, occupies a significant footprint. Like Hennepin Healthcare in Elliot Park, Abbott Northwestern shapes the neighborhood around it — providing employment and institutional stability while also consuming land and generating traffic that affects residential quality of life.

Is Phillips West diverse?

Yes. By Census estimates, more than 85 percent of residents are people of color — Black residents, including East African families, are the largest group, and about one in five residents is Latino. About four in ten residents were born outside the United States, one of the highest shares in the city, and about half speak a language other than English at home. The Phillips community as a whole is home to speakers of over 40 languages. This diversity is not recent or superficial; it is the product of decades of immigration, affordable housing, and community building by people who settled in Phillips because it was one of the few places in Minneapolis that was accessible to them.

Can you walk to Mia from Phillips West?

Yes. The Minneapolis Institute of Art sits just across I-35W from Phillips West, at 2400 Third Avenue South in Whittier. On foot it is about 5 to 20 minutes, depending on which end of the neighborhood you start from, and general admission is free. The Children's Theatre Company shares the same address.

Is Phillips West part of Phillips?

Yes. Phillips West is one of four neighborhoods that make up the Phillips community: Phillips West, Ventura Village, Midtown Phillips, and East Phillips. The Phillips community is a large, diverse area in South Minneapolis that shares many characteristics across its constituent neighborhoods — diversity, affordability, poverty, and strong community institutions. Phillips West is the southwestern piece, between I-35W and Chicago Avenue south of 22nd Street.

What is happening with the old Wells Fargo campus in Phillips West?

The 25-acre campus at 2701 Wells Fargo Way, along I-35W between 26th Street and the Greenway, was Honeywell's international corporate headquarters until 1999 and later Wells Fargo's home mortgage campus. It emptied out after the pandemic. In June 2026, Novarum Development Partners announced a plan, called Iconic Plaza, for roughly 1,000 housing units, medical offices, educational space and retail around the campus's existing four-acre park, with full build-out expected to take two to five years, according to CBS Minnesota. Until construction is underway, treat the details as a plan.

What Makes Phillips West Irreplaceable

Phillips West is small — a little over a third of a square mile between I-35W, Chicago Avenue, 22nd Street and Lake Street — and a good share of it belongs to institutions: the Turnblad Mansion and St. Mary's on Park Avenue, Cristo Rey near Lake Street, the edge of Abbott Northwestern on Chicago, and the old Honeywell campus by the freeway. The people live in the blocks between them, mostly in apartments, mostly renting, four in ten of them born in another country. It is not a neighborhood most of the city knows by name. It is the stretch of South Minneapolis people drive past on I-35W.

Phillips West is not a neighborhood that asks for sympathy or applause. It has problems — real, structural, deeply rooted problems that will not be solved by a neighborhood guide or a well-intentioned blog post. But it also has something that money cannot buy and gentrification cannot replicate — a community that has been built by the people who live in it, around institutions that serve them, in a place that the rest of the city has often overlooked. The next few years will test that. The old Honeywell campus is slated to become something new, and what it becomes will decide a lot about who can afford to stay.

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